Saturday, April 17 Day 1: We left NWA at 6am and connected to Dallas and then Miami. Particularly in Miami, I felt like it was the last chance at what we Americans consider “normal” food and restrooms for awhile.
We arrived in Port-Au-Prince, Haiti in the late afternoon, and the airport itself was full of security checks (i.e. men with guns). The building structure itself clearly suffered damage, so much of what we saw seemed temporary except for one gleaming (new?) hall we walked down to get to the shuttles taking us to customs.
As we were traveling with a great deal of extra weight (approx 140 lbs per person of mostly medical supplies and food), it was no easy task gathering our luggage from baggage claim. And that area was certainly temporary, as customs officials sat in newly built plywood boxes, and we could see the baggage handlers place the bags on the mini-conveyor belt.
By the time we finally got outside through security (pushing carts we rented full of our bags) we were like honey to flies in attracting locals wanting to get a buck off us. Many people nearby us brazenly said in broken English, “Give me a dollar.” Nothing else…just “give me a dollar.” It was bizarre.
However, what was even crazier were the “luggage helpers.” Many of them had official looking shirts…but in reality were scammers who wanted to shake you down for carrying your bags. It was not the safest feeling to be outnumbered 10:1 by people wanting to “help” you. The weird thing was, it seemed like it was completely legal if not semi-police sponsored. We would say “NO” loudly and repeatedly, and demonstrate that we didn’t want help, but that was not a deterrent. When you have 3 heavy bags per person (many outweighed some of our team members), there is not a whole lot you can do when surrounded by “helpers.”
It took about 15 minutes to get the 50 yards or so from the airport exit to our van/ & truck that were waiting nearby, and by the time we got to our vehicle we had 8-9 hangers on that would not leave (and 1 guy that actually HAD helped when a cart got stuck). We left a few tips to a few people who had actually helped a ton but made it clear we weren’t tipping everyone.
Driving through the city was tragic, beautiful, and compelling. There would be a nice building looking structurally sound, and next to it hundreds of tents with families living in them. We traveled through the shopping districts where traffic was as bad as anything I have ever seen in downtown Chicago on a Friday afternoon (HORRIBLE), and it was fascinating to see the things being sold on the sides of the street. Think of the numerous items that Wal-Mart sells, and then line the side of the road with it…and that sort of gives you an idea of how vast it was. Of course the selection was greatly diminished compared to a Wal-Mart, but there was/is a thriving market out of the ashes. And why not? People need clothes, and people need to eat. And oh were there people…everywhere there were people. Every now and then you would see someone taking a bucket bath or urinating in the street. They weren’t trying to be publicly indiscreet…it’s just Haiti. There were so many people and so much going on…you simply didn’t know where to look (or not look!) until it was too late.
We finally got to our house where we were staying for the week just before it started getting dark, and we instantly had an instant reverse culture shock. Our place was secure (behind walls with broken glass strategically placed on the tops along with razor wire), very clean, had running water for showers, and semi-flushable toilets (no TP allowed). It was also 2 stories tall, had a generator, electricity…and wifi. WOW. It was shockingly better than we anticipated, and though it seemed like a lot compared to many in the country, it was a blessing to have a bit of semi-normalcy to rest at that night and throughout the week. We had basic army cots to sleep on, but that too seemed like a luxury compared to what we had just driven through.
We gathered for a team time, sorted some Rx supplies, and hit the sack thoroughly exhausted late in the evening.